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akku3d
Posts: 22
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(@akku3d)
Eminent Member
Joined: 2 years ago

Nach etwas längerer Zeit habe ich mich wieder mit dem FabScan beschäftigt.

Ich habe das gleiche Problem, das ich auch damals schon hatte.

Mein Objekt wird gescannt, aber oben drüber entsteht ein unregelmäßiger, dicker „Turm“.

Ich habe wie in dem anderen Thread empfohlen saturation und brightness verstellt, komme aber so

auch zu keinem brauchbaren Ergebnis.

Woran könnte es noch liegen, bzw. was könnte ich noch versuchen?

Liegt es vielleicht an der Cam und ich sollte mir eine andere besorgen?

2020 10 10
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leonnoel
Posts: 33
(@leonnoel)
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Joined: 2 years ago

With my small amount of experience here are my suggestions.

It looks like your may be getting a lot of what I call bloom (at least a cloud of light scatter).  I Recommend trying a simple object first such as a cubic figure-for example in the plan view a rectangle 50mm across the diagonal, which will have 35.35mm faces and perhaps 75mm height.  Anyway start with a simple nonreflective figure. We will assume that default.config.json file has been edited to the recommended values and the calibration has been run and you have the latest software image installed.. Also for reflective object it has been suggested by others that a spray chalk coating, flour, etc.to dull the surface be used.  If you have a 3D printed part or figure made of wood this shouldn't be necessary. 

I usually have to reduce the saturation down towards -80, brightness to 30 and usually leave the contrast at the default setting. Your settings will probably be different as the Wetterott lasers are 1 mWatt while I'm using cheap 5 mWatt lasers. The intent is to have a single line without the bloom show on the preview.

Uncheck the color (texture scan) as it will not be good with the adjustment of lighting parameters. I see that Mario has it on his todo list to make the texture portion of the scan independently adjustment.

If you are not sure of the stepper motor-200 or 400 step per revolution, try the following.  It is difficult from your scan picture to determine which motor you may have and in addition to know if your stepper driver is configured correctly, specially if the Silent Step Stick Driver is not a TMC2100.

I recommend the resolution slider to the far left (lowest resolution) which will give you vertical scans every 8 microsteps (400 for a 200 step stepper or 800 for a 400 step stepper)- for determining which stepper motor you have, you could change the 6400 to 3200 in the default.config.json file- you will get a half revolution- 180 degrees if the stepper is a 400 step motor else 360 degrees if it is a 200 step motor. If you do not get either a 180 degree or 360 degree rotation it is an indication that the step stick driver is not configures to 16 microsteps.

This may be enough to get a decent scan without changing the threshold setting, if not mess with it a bit.

I will try to attach some screen shots showing default setting, adjusted settings for scanning, scan set - up at that point and a finished scan plus a zipped cubic STL file.

Screenshot (215)
Screenshot (216)   Copy
Screenshot (217)   Copy
Screenshot (218)
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akku3d
Posts: 22
Topic starter
(@akku3d)
Eminent Member
Joined: 2 years ago

Thank you.

With your hints and especially with the screenshots it worked now.
The image is very dark because of the reduced brightness, especially when scanning with color. But the strange tower is gone now. Is there a way to optimize the hardware to get brighter scans?
Is there a way to save the settings (saturation and brightness)?

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leonnoel
Posts: 33
(@leonnoel)
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Joined: 2 years ago

I'm happy it is working for you.  Now that you have some success and some exposure to everything it would be a good time to review the documentation, the FAQ's and the forum subjects.  

To answer your specific questions which are from knowledge I have gained from doing the same:

The settings for obtaining a good scan are not good for the color (texture) portion of the scan.  Mario has on his todo list to provide a separate settings menu for the color portion.  I believe that the greater portion of users have intentions of using the scanner to 3D print their scans and the color information is of limited value.  

After the scan, the right drop down menu allows you to save the .ply files to your browser host computer.  The scan files are saved to the SD card of your scanner. They can be accessed from the index card icon on the left by clicking on it and selecting the icon of one of the scans which shows and it will be loaded.  This allows you to review past work or to delete the scan from the SD storage if not wanted.  It also loads your settings used for that scan.  You can click on the ducky icon to start a new scan with those settings.  I think you have to select the resolution each time.  You only need to perform one calibration at the beginning or recalibrate if the physical location of lasers, camera, etc. have been disturbed.  I included the cubic .stl file as I think it would be a good way to estimate the accuracy of your calibration and also it is an easy object to scan for practice.

Of course the .ply file must be converted to a .stl file to create the 3D printer gcode.  I think user Danilo (not sure of spelling and can't easily check while in reply mode) would be a good advisor as that person has much more experience in the process than myself.

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Zutcliff
(@zutcliff)
Joined: 10 months ago

Active Member
Posts: 8

@leonnoel - Thx, your post made my day!! I was pulling off my hair since I always got that "tower of babel" after my scans. Changing saturation, brightness and contrast were a game changer 👍

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Danilo0702
Posts: 386
(@danilo0702)
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Joined: 3 years ago

@Zutcliff     When the scanner is running, the most important thing is to have a proper calibration. Since this now only takes 2-3 minutes in 0.9.4, I've got used to doing one before each use.
I built a template from 3 right angles and the exact distance from the lens to the center plate. That allows me to get the Shett right. Then I align the lasers so that they are 100% on top of each other. Then I move the Shett 10 mm towards the camera and start the scan.
When I'm done, I access the Pi via ftp (Filezilla in admin mode) and download the scans. I then process these with Meshlab and CAD.
The download directly from the browser window does not work and he does not need that either. External editing has many more options. I don't worry about this "tower" anymore. This can be easily removed in Meshlab.
I am German and speak several languages and only a little bit of school English

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Zutcliff
(@zutcliff)
Joined: 10 months ago

Active Member
Posts: 8

@danilo0702 Danke für Deine Infos, Danilo! Das mit Filezilla probier ich morgen mal.

Der Download des .ply Files vom Browser (OSX 11.2.1, Chrome 88.0.4324.150, MeshLab 2020.12) und der folgende Importversuch wird bei Meshlab mit der Meldung "Unable to open file: "/Users/xxxxx/Desktop/colorized.ply" Error details: file format ply not supported." abgebrochen..

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Danilo0702
(@danilo0702)
Joined: 3 years ago

Reputable Member
Posts: 386

@zutcliff, ich weiss -- nimm nicht die neueste Version von Meshlab. Die ist Schrott. Die 2016 ist gut

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Danilo0702
(@danilo0702)
Joined: 3 years ago

Reputable Member
Posts: 386

@zutcliff , nein -- du musst entweder via ssh ((sehr umständlich)) oder ftp (sftp) direkt ins Homeverzeichnis unter Scans. Dort siehst du Ordner, in denen die Dateien (.ply und .jpg) liegen. Ich weiss nicht, ob man unter OSX direkt vom Browser via ftp auf den Pi zugreifen kann. bei mir wird das ftp Protokoll nicht unterstützt. Ich muss sftp nehmen und den Client mit adminrechten starten.

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